Despite its name, the Agafay Desert is not the sand desert of Sahara and Lawrence of Arabia fame, more a vast, undulating, stony landscape crisscrossed with tracks and dusty roads, cut through with dry riverbeds and pockmarked with small groves of stunted trees, watched over by the snow-capped peaks of the High Atlas Mountains in the distance. In Spring it is decorated with wheat fields that provide animal fodder and bursts of colourful wildflowers; in high summer it is arid and sparse. Small groups of goats pick at the rough scrub and abandoned homes show the result of the severe water shortage that has plagued this area for decades. A fascinating look at a harsh environment while staying at a desert encampment that harmonises with its environment.